Even if the engine was running well a few weeks before I bought it, I decided to do some maintenance prior to install it into the car. It’s far easyer to change the timing belt on an engine stand no ?
OEM new parts received. Timing belt, cam covers seals, oil pan seal, VTEC solenoid seal, thermostat, HAMP oil filters and some bearings for front knuckles rebuild (later).
My first engine stand huhuhu !
So, if you’re a Honda engine owner or tuner, you will know how difficult it can be to untightened the crank pulley bolt. And if you can, try to buy the right tool for this operation as it will change your life !!
I decided to create my own based on existing models. The hole in the HEX part will allow you to block the pulley and install your wrench through.
Just like this !
A lot of guys tries to remove this bolt with a ‘truck chock wrench’. But it’s very difficult and always damaging for parts …
The best solution is to block the system, put a small load on the wrench to position everything and … go !
I guarantee : success for this bolt not untightened since 80.000 kms !
Installing my oil sandwich plate coming from the old engine, and a brand new HAMP filter to use with new quality oil.
Oil pan modification : a friend just MIG welded plates into the oil pan to protect oil pump and engine under lateral forces on track.
The new timing belt installed and checked. You can notice the white ‘marks’ I made on it. It helps checking installation with the same marks made on the old belt.
Even if the timing belt has a tensionning system, a good ‘trick’ is to check a belt tension (also good for the alternator ..) by hand to have a quick idea of the situation.
You should be able to twist the belt of around 90 degrees from the original position as shown on the picture.
You should reach this twisted position with a light force. Not too easy, not too much. The roller has also been replaced by a new one.